Chris crushing Macho Man (V10)
Me struggling through Black Tie Affair (V6)
Saturday, June 2, 2012
Colorado, The Wild
So currently I am situated in Boulder, pretty much by myself staying with friends (thank you all a ton) and meeting up at climbing spots. I have visited almost a new area everyday, some of those include lincoln lake, endo valley, wild basin, flatirons, boulder canyon and so on. I have had the great opportunity to climb with Chris Sinatra and his friends as they show me around the new spots. Yesterday we visited Wild Basin, a new area in RMNP and he crushed Macho Man, a seemingly hard 10. I also had the great experience of meeting Paul Dusatko and seeing Gustavo once again while they both crushed many other great problems such as Mini Dagger and Odie, a hard move to a bad sloper.
Saturday, May 12, 2012
Epic Trip Pt 2.
We finally got to Joe's Valley to find tons of climbers there. We saw my old friends Chris Chen and Jorge Guiterrez at the Food Ranch. We also saw Courtney Miyamoto and had the pleasure of meeting Chris Sinatra and Anthony Tarascio, two super strong climbers that had been staying out there. My first day I was able to dispatch Stir the Pie V9 in only a few minutes and ended up getting a huge flapper on playmate of the year.
Nick got super close to Stir the Pie and we ended our day. The next day I was supposed to rest and taped my thumb up, we went to Chips and I decided to climb and did Planet of the Apes v7 in a few goes. Very cool movement on that one. We went to the Food Ranch where I had my first butterfinger donut and the donut trend started. Every day I ate a donut and an energy drink for many days straight, it had become a ritual. I switched it from butterfinger donuts to oreo donuts.
A few days later Courtney sent one of my favorite climbs I had done earlier in the week Wills a Fire
One of the most classic problems in Joes. Everyone was crushing this trip all over the place. Eric Wolff and John Kennedy had joined us. I took a rest day with Nick and hung out at the Food Ranch (it became the local hangout spot) and had a great sending day the next day. Nick and I warmed up on the Kraken (V4 highball) and I sent Dunkin Donuts (V10?), and Scary Monsters (V6) Nick was so close! We finished the day with both sending Chips in the late afternoon!
Dunkin Donuts
Nick got super close to Stir the Pie and we ended our day. The next day I was supposed to rest and taped my thumb up, we went to Chips and I decided to climb and did Planet of the Apes v7 in a few goes. Very cool movement on that one. We went to the Food Ranch where I had my first butterfinger donut and the donut trend started. Every day I ate a donut and an energy drink for many days straight, it had become a ritual. I switched it from butterfinger donuts to oreo donuts.
A few days later Courtney sent one of my favorite climbs I had done earlier in the week Wills a Fire
One of the most classic problems in Joes. Everyone was crushing this trip all over the place. Eric Wolff and John Kennedy had joined us. I took a rest day with Nick and hung out at the Food Ranch (it became the local hangout spot) and had a great sending day the next day. Nick and I warmed up on the Kraken (V4 highball) and I sent Dunkin Donuts (V10?), and Scary Monsters (V6) Nick was so close! We finished the day with both sending Chips in the late afternoon!
Dunkin Donuts
Epic Trip pt.1
Nick and I set out on a trip to Joe's Valley and Colorado a few weeks ago. Needless to say its probably been one of the best trips of my life and most interesting. The first day we spent in Red Rocks I managed to pull off Angel Dyno with the sun blinding me from seeing the hold.
Angel Dyno
Nick got really close to Bubble Butt. It was really hot.
It was 85 degrees so I capped the day at that and we left quickly to Moe's Valley, Utah where some of my favorite boulder problems are. The weather was hot around 80 plus or minus every day and we wanted to hop on some hard things, I tried Lindner's Roof the first day and was able to do almost all the moves but not link. We took a rest day off and went tortoise searching (its mating season). We found out most locals never see them and they are extremely rare so we ended up just hiking forever. Day 3 we went back and Nick was able to pull off Shoulder Popper as his first 8 and I tried Lindner's. We had an early start so it was in the shade and I was doing horrible on it. Unable to even repeat the moves I was 2 days ago. Watched girl beta and decided to go for it and after the sun started blaring I was able to do it after probably 45 minutes of work. I found it to be especially hard because my fingers do not fit into the slot. The best thing about Moe's Valley is the petrified wood. We went over and did a few more classics and by 1 or 2 in the afternoon I wanted to finish with Moe's Valley and did the Pink Lady, a beautiful climb that comes out of an overhang on good holds. We had both a great day especially given it was hot as hell, and we decided to leave to Joe's Valley.
Moes Valley Video^On the way to Joe's my car started smoking and having transmission problems on 15 near Beaver, UT. Mechanic told us he couldn't do anything and just to drive slow and we eventually made it to Joe's to find all of our friends there!
Angel DynoNick got really close to Bubble Butt. It was really hot.
It was 85 degrees so I capped the day at that and we left quickly to Moe's Valley, Utah where some of my favorite boulder problems are. The weather was hot around 80 plus or minus every day and we wanted to hop on some hard things, I tried Lindner's Roof the first day and was able to do almost all the moves but not link. We took a rest day off and went tortoise searching (its mating season). We found out most locals never see them and they are extremely rare so we ended up just hiking forever. Day 3 we went back and Nick was able to pull off Shoulder Popper as his first 8 and I tried Lindner's. We had an early start so it was in the shade and I was doing horrible on it. Unable to even repeat the moves I was 2 days ago. Watched girl beta and decided to go for it and after the sun started blaring I was able to do it after probably 45 minutes of work. I found it to be especially hard because my fingers do not fit into the slot. The best thing about Moe's Valley is the petrified wood. We went over and did a few more classics and by 1 or 2 in the afternoon I wanted to finish with Moe's Valley and did the Pink Lady, a beautiful climb that comes out of an overhang on good holds. We had both a great day especially given it was hot as hell, and we decided to leave to Joe's Valley.
Moes Valley Video^On the way to Joe's my car started smoking and having transmission problems on 15 near Beaver, UT. Mechanic told us he couldn't do anything and just to drive slow and we eventually made it to Joe's to find all of our friends there!
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